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grafittiyesterday morning i woke to the sunrise over the red sea, to lemon-and-mint, musk and amber. packed my bag again, the last time on this trip, rearranged it so the woolen coat was on top, easily accessible. breakfast on a marble floor under the relentlessly blue sky, then three hundred kilometres back to the beginning, back to amman, and then the journey home.

chasing the sunset north-and-west, the cities of europe arcane scribbles of light far below. the new moon shifting widdershins – the graceful boat hanging over aqaba seamlessly becoming a sharp scandinavian sickle. reading a tale of the lionheart and salah al-din, thinking of the castle walls of ajlun and karak, the harsh and enchanting beauty of the desert, the challenge of it: prove yourself! the breathtaking colours and carvings of petra. the water – going from salt beyond salt to fresh and perfectly cool, strangely soft around my fingers.

i miss you already, jordan. i hope to see you again soon.